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The Joy of Quack Grass
by Naomi Jackson, HPC Staff
Enhance your problem-solving skills! Strengthen your ability
to complete difficult tasks! Increase your will power! All this
and more when you decide it’s time to get rid of that
pernicious pest, quack grass.
Early this spring I stood with a farmer aquaintance, surveying a 10-acre field
matted with quack grass. "How do you get rid of the stuff?" she wondered. It’s
an organic farm, so that limits her options.
I decided to find out, and in so doing, discovered that quack grass, like most
of us, is a mixture of good and bad. It can invade lawn and garden, field and
nature preserve, outcompeting native plants and your favorite vegetables. It is
also a prized herbal remedy, nutritious forage crop, and an emergency food
source.
Like the dandelion, quack grass was brought to this country deliberately by
European settlers. And like the dandelion, it greens up early in the spring,
providing relief from the nutritional deprivations of the winter months. Yes,
you can toss those early quack grass shoots into your dandelion-green salad!
How does your quack grass grow?
Before you start eating quack grass, you should know what it looks like. Quack
grass is a member of the grass family, featuring long white or yellow
underground runners (rhizomes) that can extend several feet from the base of
the plant. The rhizomes grow close to the surface, usually no deeper than 6
inches. They are very sturdy, with a sharp point at the end. I’ve found quack
grass rhizomes growing right through a potato.
The grass itself can grow up to three feet high and will produce two to three
dozen seeds per plant. The seeds can lie dormant for more than 20 years and can
survive being eaten by domestic animals.
However, it is not the seeds that make quack grass the bane of gardeners and
farmers. It is the rhizomes. Each rhizome has little hairy joints every few
inches. Each joint can grow into a new plant. And one quack grass plant can
produce 300 hundred feet of rhizomes in a year. So, if you run over a quack
grass plant with your tiller, you will have dozens of plants where you only had
one. Thus the Latin name, "Agropyron repens" — "sudden field of fire."2
Before we consider how to put out the fire, let's talk about its benefits, in
case you should wish to tuck a bit into your tinder box for future use.
Stay healthy with quack grass!
Nicholas Culpeper, the famed 17th-century herbalist, said, "Although a gardener
be of another opinion, yet a physician holds half an acre of [quack grass] to
be worth five acres of carrots twice told over."3
In my reading, I found over five dozen medicinal uses for quack grass rhizomes.
They are most commonly used for respiratory and urinary disorders, and as a
spring tonic.
The rhizomes can also improve your digestion, as they contain a polysaccharide
that can “...increase beneficial bifidobacteria within the gastrointestinal
tract and eliminate bacterial pathogens.”4
If you’d like to add quack grass to your herbal pharmacopia, see the resources
at the end of this article; in particular, Flora and Journey to Forever.
Hungry? Try quack grass.
Okay, you’d probably have to be pretty hungry to eat this grass. But here are
some ideas, just in case.
The long quack grass rhizomes can be cleaned and dried and ground into a flour,
a means of making bread in hard times. Or, roast them and brew them as a coffee
substitute.
Raw rhizomes can be chewed as a quick garden snack. They are mildly sweet and
extremely fibrous, so bring your dental floss.
You can also juice the rhizomes for a spring tonic, but be careful—all that
fiber could be hard on your juicer. Or, boil them to a syrup and make beer.
And, as mentioned earlier, young leaves and shoots can be added to your early
spring salad. The seeds are edible, too, but you’d have to be very patient to
gather enough to be useful.
Improve your garden with quack grass!
There are situations in which quack grass can be useful for controlling erosion.
The roots form a dense mat, holding soil in place.
Until recently, a strip of quack grass separated our vegetable garden from the
alley behind our house. Since we were replacing our fence, it seemed a good
time to rip out the quack grass. The root mat was so thick that the soil
underneath was bone dry.
Now I’m kind of regretting the decision. Without that tough barrier, our garden
is at risk of eroding during heavy rains, and I can’t think of another ground
cover that would withstand a steady diet of snowblown gravel and car exhaust.
Quack grass can also be made into a slug repellent, although it’s more work
than pouring a little beer in a pan. According to the Manitoba Gardener, quack
grass “...damages the nerves of slugs. Chop it up and use it as mulch. Make a
tea by cutting the grass up, soaking in one [quart] of warm water for 24 hours,
then use as a barrier spray.”5 (The article warns not to use it directly on
your hostas.)
Quack grass removal from back yard gardens
Still not convinced about the usefulness of quack grass? Here are some non-
toxic ways to get rid of it. You will need to add patience and persistence to
each method.
The best strategy is simply to dig up the plants. Choose a day when your garden
soil is easy to work—slightly damp and crumbly. Loosen the affected area with a
pitchfork. Don’t use a shovel, or you will end up chopping up the rhizomes,
which you will deeply regret.
Gently loosen and lift the entire quack grass plant from the soil, following
the rhizomes to the end and making sure you don’t leave behind any broken bits.
Don’t put quack grass plants in your compost until you are very sure they are
dead. I put mine in the trash.
Hot water and mulch
Try pouring boiling water over the plants you want to get rid of. This works
nicely for quack grass growing through sidewalk cracks and in other hard-to-
weed locations. You may need to repeat the treatment several times throughout
the summer.
You can get rid of quack grass using mulch, but the mulch needs to be
impenetrable. Try laying newspaper on top of a layer of leaves and grass, and
covering the paper with more organic mulch. Leave this mulch on until after you
have harvested your crops; then till the whole thing into your soil. You will
need to repeat the process the next year.
If you’d rather use a plastic mulch, use clear plastic, not black.6 The quack
grass will be scorched by the sun beating through the plastic. After most of it
has withered, cover the plastic with at least a foot of mixed mulch.
An ounce of prevention
Give your hoe lots of exercise. Every time you see a quack grass sprout in your
garden, chop it off. After awhile, the plant will use up all of its energy
stores and die.
If you are using your hoe, pitchfork, or tiller in more than one garden area,
make sure you don’t carry bits of rhizome from one place to another. Keep your
equipment clean.
Prevent quack grass seeds from infesting your garden. If there is quack grass
in your lawn, keep your lawn mowed so it doesn’t go to seed. If you use hay or
straw bales for gardening or insulation, make sure you get them from a clean
source.
Large-scale quack grass wars
Even environmentally minded folks have resorted to herbicides when faced with
large amounts of quack grass. The preferred chemical is glyphosate, found in
Roundup. Michael S. Batcher of The Nature Conservancy advises applying
glyphosate early in the spring, after the quack grass has started growing but
before other plants have sprouted.7
However, there are other things to try before you resort to poison. The most
effective—and most time-consuming—method is tilling. Repeated shallow tilling
exposes large numbers of rhizomes and forces the ones that remain buried to use
up their food reserves. Till in warm, dry weather, as this will speed up
rhizome dessication.
Tilling needs to be done two years in a row. Batcher recommends that, if you
get too much rain to till in the second year, the area should be mowed or
grazed to prevent the quack grass from producing seeds.8
Don’t forget to clean your equipment when you are done tilling an area full of
quack grass.
Fighting fire with fire...and goats!
Some people have had success with repeated early spring burnings in quack grass-
infested areas.9 Burning needs to be done several years in a row. For most of
us, this falls in the category of “Do not try this at home.”
A safer and faster method is to buy or rent a small herd of goats. Goats will
eat almost anything that grows. They will also add fertilizer to the soil, and
till it in with their hooves.10
Geese are also effective weed-eaters. A young goose can eat its weight in grass
every day. One breed of goose specializes in weed control, aptly named the
Chinese weeding goose.11
The politics of quack grass
Are you really serious about eliminating quack grass? Call your legislator
about legalizing the use of agricultural hemp. It is one of the most effective
cover crops out there for crowding out unwanted plants.
In 1918, back when hemp was a legal crop, Andrew Wright of Wisconsin’s Hemp
Industry noted that “Hemp has been demonstrated to be the best smother crop for
assisting in the eradication of quack grass and Canada thistles...At Waupon in
1911 the hemp was grown on land badly infested with quack grass, and in spite
of an unfavorable season a yield of 2,100 pounds of fiber to the acre was
obtained and the quack grass was practically destroyed.”12
Until the laws change, the University of Minnesota’s Yard and Garden
publication suggests a rotation of winter rye and crown vetch followed by
buckwheat.13
As you begin your own personal quack grass wars, remind yourself that tasks
like this are character-building. And if you figure out how to make quack grass
beer, invite me over.
The many names of Quack Grass:
Latin: Elytrigia repens, Agropyron repens, Triticum repens, Elymus repens
Also known as: quitch, couch-grass, witch grass, dog grass, wheat grass, Scotch quelch, chandler's grass, devil's grass, quake grass, quickgrass, scutch, twitch, cough grass, and Dutch grass.
If you want to know more... Resources on quack grass:
- Batcher, Michael S., "Element Stewardship Abstract for Elytrigia repens var.
repens (L.) Desv. ex B. D. Jackson," prepared for The Nature Conservancy, 2002.
- Cholewa, A. F., "Elytrigia," J. F. Bell Museum of Natural History, 2002. (<
http://www. bellmuseum.org/plants/Grasses/grass%20text/elytrigia%201.htm>)
- "Controlling Quackgrass in Gardens," Yard and Garden Brief, University of
Minnesota Extension Service, 1999. ()
- Curran, Williams S., and Dwight D. Lingenfelter, "Quackgrass Management: An
Integrated Approach," Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences, 2002. (<
http://www.cas.psu.edu>)
- Engeldinger, Eugene, "The Magic of Newspaper Mulch," Mother Earth News, May/
June 1980. ()
- Osentowski, Jerome, "[permaculture] Broadminded thinking?," . ()
- "Quack grass," Journey to Forever, .
- "Quackgrass and Its Control," Iowa State University, University Extension,
April 1992.
- "Quitch (Couch-grass) Root," Flora,
- "Weeds, Friends or Foe?: Unusual Controls," Golden Harvest Organics,
- "What was said on CJOB?," Manitoba Gardener, July 9, 2006,
Notes:
- "Controlling Quackgrass in
Gardens," Yard & Garden Brief.
- ibid.
- "Quack grass," Journey to Forever.
- "Quitch (Couch-grass) Root," Flora.
- "What was said on CJOB?," Manitoba Gardener.
- Jerome Osentowski.
- Batcher, Michael S., "Element Stewardship Abstract for Elytrigia repens var. repens (L.)...."
- ibid.
- ibid.
- "Weeds, Friends or Foe?," Golden Harvest Organics.
- ibid.
- ibid.
- "Controlling Quackgrass in Gardens," Yard & Garden Brief.
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