Spending Your Organic Dollar

—by Judith Sims

I spend up to $500 per month on food, and that includes very few nights out at restaurants. (Gleaning this figure was one of the benefits of doing my taxes.)

Although the numbers vary wildly depending on where you shop and whether you subsist on ramen noodles or lots of meat, USDA and Wiki stats from 2007 show that an average American adult spends $175–$275 per month on groceries; kids are cheaper at $100–$150 per month. But costs are higher for those who buy organic. One estimate, created by a Kansas journalist, priced a month’s worth of the most basic, inexpensive groceries at a Whole Foods store at $564. So perhaps I’m not so extravagant!

"Dirty Dozen" and "Clean Fifteen"

But even I will exercise some restraint when it comes to buying organic. Don’t get me wrong! I am militant about buying most foods in their unsprayed, naturally fertilized, energy-saving, labor-intensive organic splendor, particularly high-fat foods, like dairy. But there are exceptions. When you eat as much asparagus as I do (and it’s America’s favorite vegetable) you’ll want to know that 90% of conventionally grown asparagus shows no pesticide residue. This information comes courtesy of the Environmental Working Group (EWG), which publishes two lists: “The Dirty Dozen” and “The Clean Fifteen.” These describe the pesticide load of the most- and least-contaminated fruits and vegetables, based on data taken from various USDA trials. Almost all the trials used rinsed or peeled produce. The EWG says that if you avoid the “Dirty Dozen,” or buy organic versions of them, you can cut your exposure to pesticides by almost 80%. You can further avoid pesticide exposure by concentrating your purchases within the “Clean Fifteen.”

So which were the most contaminated crops? EWG’s analysis showed that fruits led the way. About 95% of peach and apple samples carried pesticide residue. Additionally, these fruits plus strawberries showed high levels of multiple pesticide use. Nectarines, cherries, imported grapes, and pears closely followed the leaders. Ninety- four percent of celery samples were contaminated, with 80% of samples showing multiple residues. The others? Sweet bell peppers, carrots, lettuce, and kale. Who knew that something as healthy as kale could sport 10 pesticides?

So perhaps you should learn to love eggplant, cabbage, and papaya, 80% of which showed no pesticide residue. Even better are pineapple (93%), mango (91%), asparagus and sweet peas (90%), and kiwi (87%). The champs were avocado, sweet corn, and onion, which were virtually pesticide-free. The remaining “Clean Fifteen” — watermelon, broccoli, tomato, sweet potato (which tied with grapefruit) ranged from 70% to 75% “clean.” Multiple pesticide residues were rarely found on any of these plants. If you ate from this group you might expose yourself to only one or two pesticides a day, whereas the “Dirty Dozen” might expose you to 10 a day.

If you comparison-shop, you may find that some organic products cost the same or are cheaper than conventional foods. But if organic food is a luxury for you or it is unavailable, you could get around buying it. Should you? And how bad are pesticides, anyway?

How bad are pesticides?

Well, not unreasonably bad, according to the EPA. The EPA screens pesticides and sets limits on the amount of residue produce can contain, taking the presence of other harmful chemicals in water, air, and the home into account. Each pesticide must meet a standard to protect infants and children. That sounds like a good standard; but the enforcement of those standards has been another story under the last administration, and not one that inspires confidence, say critics. There are also areas with no standards or enforcement, like “pesticide drift” from intended targets to unintended plants, soil, and water. Another problem is produce imported from countries where regulations might allow more pesticides, or pesticides that have been banned here. Again, there are standards in place to protect consumers; and, again, the ability andwill to enforce the standards has reportedly been lacking.

Critics point out that pesticides are inherently dangerous, since they are designed to kill or disrupt the nervous, endocrine, and reproductive systems of living organisms — like us. The documented consequences of pesticide exposure range from skin, eye, and lung irritation to cancer, diabetes, depression, neurological disorders, and birth defects. Just one bizarre example of a birth defect: incidences of missing or very small eyes are twice as common in rural areas as urban.

The impact of pesticides on farmers and other rural workers is a powerful reason to buy organic food, says Bud Markhart, professor of horticultural science at the University of Minnesota. “It’s something we don’t really think about, the direct health impact on the people who grow our food.” He says recent studies in North Dakota have linked low-level pesticide exposure to Parkinson’s disease. “Buying local and organic is better for the farmer, better for the environment, and better for the local economy.” And obviously, that benefits the health of you, the shopper.

Shake the hand that feeds you

But what if you are already committed to buying the cleanest, best food possible and want to do more? Will Winter, DVM, one of the founders of “Traditional Foods of Minnesota,” says the key to finding quality food is “to be able to shake the hand that feeds you.” Some producers who aren’t certified organic produce better quality food, he says. Not everyone can or will go through the expense and work of becoming certified. In these cases, you need to ask questions and get to know your suppliers. Or, check out producers listed with Food Alliance Midwest, whose certification includes evaluations of humane treatment of animals and fair wages for workers. Now that’s a way to make your dollar buy a lot more than just food!

[Judith Sims is a media producer and former president of the North Country Herbalist Guild.]