Salt of the Earth

-by Emma Onawa

Imagine receiving part of your salary in salt. Soldiers in ancient Rome did — and the word “salary” derives from this practice. Until recently, salt was not plentiful and was very valuable. It was used in economic exchange and taxed. In fact, the economic status of a family was measured by the amount of salt in its cellars.

Unlike today, the most expensive salt was uniformly fine grained and white. Only the wealthiest families served it. In pre-refrigeration days, salt was critical to food preservation and, of course, the flavoring of foods. It wasn’t until the 19th century that salt became more plentiful and its value dropped.

Salt is vital to the balanced and healthy functioning of the body. It regulates bodily fluids, and minerals found in unrefined salts may help to lower blood pressure and improve cardiovascular functioning. Conventional wisdom that prescribes a low-sodium diet to lower blood pressure has become increasingly called into question. The conclusion that there’s a link is based primarily on two studies that had critical flaws; later studies have failed to prove a link. In fact, the evidence now points to diets low in mineral intake as contributing to high blood pressure and other cardiovascular disease. Mineral deficiencies also are present in most chronic disease.

In addition to sodium, sea salts provide trace amounts of potassium, calcium, and magnesium, all of which contribute to good health. Salt also improves food safety and flavor, as it is used for curing meats, pickling, bringing out underlying or drawing out bitter flavors in foods, and keeping yeast in check.

While many people worry about adding salt to their food at the dinner table, processed foods are a far greater source of sodium in our diets. Although all salts are primarily sodium, the shape and manner of processing a salt impacts the amount of sodium it contains — generally the more coarse and less refined (and less dense) salts have a lower level of sodium chloride. Refining also removes other minerals from salt; thus salts other than refined table salt may be a better dietary choice.

In the column at the right, you will find definitions of the salts you may find on a grocer's shelves.

Below are some salty tips:

• Instead of using a shaker, take a pinch of unrefined salt, rub between your fingers, and sprinkle.
• Sea salt corrodes metal, so store in a metal-free container.
• Don’t bake with sea salt. It won’t dissolve evenly and the trace minerals might clash with sweet ingredients.
• Salt meats and fish on both sides before cooking to help develop flavor.
• Add a pinch of herbs or spices to your favorite salt.
• Sprinkle salad greens with salt before tossing — you may just forgo the dressing.

Emma Onawa is a veteran member and shopper of co-ops; worships felines; loves gardening, nature, and eccentric people; and investigates esoteric subjects that would put most people to sleep.