Veggies from the Sea

—by Meredith Sommer

I couldn’t resist a class offered by St. Paul Community Education on “Cooking with Sea Vegetables” (also known as seaweed). Not knowing much about seaweed except that nori is used to wrap sushi, I was a sponge for an adventure with treasures from the sea.

Sea vegetables are actually a form of algae. They grow both in the wild and in saltwater tanks, where they are cultivated by commercial growers. In the United States, wild edible sea vegetables grow off the cold coastal waters of Maine and Washington, and around Mendocino, California.

The people who hand-harvest the wild seaweed are called “wildcrafters.” Using small boats or kayaks, they search for seaweed in underwater caves and on rocky formations near the edges of cliffs. For sustainable harvesting, only the blades, or leaves, are cut so the holdfasts, which are like roots, are not damaged. The best harvesting times are during the new and the full moon, a time called the minus tide, when the ocean is the farthest out from land. Harvesting often takes place at night; and with the waves and rocks and cold water, it can be very dangerous.

Seaweed floating in the water or lying on the shore should never be eaten. Nor should amateurs harvest seaweed without an expert wildcrafter to guide them. Like foraging for mushrooms, it takes knowledge and experience to identify edible and safe varieties.

Wild seaweed is also harvested off the coasts of Scandinavia, Ireland, and Asia. Common in Asia are seafarms that are either enclosed areas in the ocean or stainless steel saltwater tanks. This form of mariculture protects wild seaweed from over harvesting and appears to be sustainable and nonpolluting.

After the plants are cut, they are rinsed in fresh water and hung on lines to dry in the sun. The plants deteriorate and discolor quickly, so as soon as they are dry, they are stored in a dark, dry place before packaging.

Seaweed is also harvested mechanically by some commercial enterprises. The machines use suction, detaching the holdfasts from the rocks so the plants cannot regenerate themselves. Commercial seaweed is dried with dehydration equipment rather than the sun.

Nutritional Value

Sea vegetables are one of the most nutrient- and mineral-rich foods. In addition, their minerals are easily absorbed and used by the body. They are high in calcium, iodine, potassium, iron, and trace minerals. They are also an excellent source of protein, low in fat, and low in calories. Although seaweed may appear salty, the soaking process leaches out much of the sodium. The salty taste is actually from potassium.

You can buy sea vegetables at Hampden Park Co-op. The small square packages are hanging at the end of the soy milk shelves.

Asian grocery stores carry large selections of sea vegetables, mostly imported from Asia. Instructions are on the package, but they may be in Japanese or Mandarin. No matter what the language, sea vegetables always should be rinsed with fresh water before soaking or cooking. In general, they expand 2–3 times their original size when soaked.

Common Sea Vegetables

Arame, a delicate grasslike vegetable from Japan, is mild in flavor and easy to prepare. After soaking in water for 5 minutes and no more, it can be added to soups or casseroles, or sautéed with land vegetables. It can also be added to grains for a rich, salty-sweet flavor.

Dulse is salty-tasting but low in sodium and high in potassium and protein. Use the flakes as a seasoning, sprinkled on eggs, soups, salad, or popcorn, straight from the package. When baked 5-7 minutes in a 250° oven, dulse becomes crunchy and can take the place of bacon.

Hijiki has a deeply intense flavor that is tamed by 20 minutes of soaking. During this time, it will quadruple in volume. It has the highest calcium content of all sea vegetables and is one of the best nondairy sources of calcium available.

Kombu and Kelp are interchangeable in recipes, although kombu comes from Asia and kelp from the North Atlantic. They are the most widely used of seavegetables, and can be added to make beans more tender and easier to digest. Use them to make a broth called dashi, to which miso may be added for a lovely soup. Granulated kelp is found in bulk in the herb and spice area at the co-op. As a seasoning, it can be used to replace salt.

Nori is processed into flat sheets and is most commonly used to wrap sushi or California rolls. It can also be used to wrap finger foods; it’s especially convenient for children’s meals to replace bread or crackers. Also, nori can be eaten raw from the package. It is extremely high in protein and A and B vitamins.

Wakame, in Japan, is noted for flushing salt out of the body, thus reducing the risk of high blood pressure. It is a rather sweet tasting sea vegetable and can be eaten raw after rinsing and soaking for 5 minutes. It is very high in calcium and Vitamin C.

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Resources

• Mike Stickel, cooking class instructor: mike_stickel10@hotmail.com.
• Vegetables from the Sea by Jill Gusman
• Eden Foods, the oldest family-owned natural food company in North America, has a newsletter and recipes online.